Rhamnose is a natural monosaccharide (C6 sugar) found in certain plants such as birch and Uncaria. In dermocosmetics, it is an anti-aging active ingredient that specifically targets the papillary dermis —the junction between the epidermis and the dermis responsible for cell renewal. It stimulates fibroblast activity and supports the synthesis of skin collagen. Discover our range of anti-aging skincare products and anti-aging serums.
What is rhamnose?
Rhamnose (L-rhamnose) is a natural deoxyose extracted primarily through the hydrolysis of certain plant glycosides. In cosmetics, its value lies in its specific mechanism of action on the papillary dermis —the superficial dermal layer whose density and structure directly determine the skin’s elasticity and firmness. Clinical studies conducted by teams at Sederma (BASF Group) show that 5% rhamnose stimulates the activity of dermal fibroblasts and increases the production of glycosaminoglycans — the components of the extracellular matrix that retain water in the dermis. It stands out from traditional anti-aging active ingredients due to its high tolerability, making it suitable even for the most sensitive skin.
What are the effects of rhamnose on the skin?
Rhamnose acts on several components of skin aging in a gradual and well-documented manner.
- Fibroblast stimulation: activation of collagen I and III andelastin synthesis in the papillary dermis—supporting skin firmness
- Cell renewal: accelerates the turnover of basal keratinocytes — smoother skin and an even complexion
- Moisturizing effect: stimulates dermal glycosaminoglycans (endogenous hyaluronic acid) — maintains the dermis’s moisture balance
- Visual refinement of skin texture: pores appear refined through improved overall skin texture
- Complementary antioxidant action: protects dermal cells against oxidative stress caused by UV rays and pollution
Rhamnose and anti-aging actives: what combinations work best?
Rhamnose is particularly versatile in multi-active formulas—it enhances the effectiveness of other anti-aging ingredients.
- Hyaluronic acid: a combination of surface hydration (HA) and deep matrix synthesis (rhamnose)—optimal synergy in anti-aging serums
- Retinol: Rhamnose is particularly well-tolerated when combined with retinol—it reduces retinol’s irritating effect on sensitive skin
- Vitamin C: antioxidant synergy + cofactor for collagen synthesis—an ideal combination in morning serums
- Niacinamide: evens out skin tone + supports the skin barrier — a well-tolerated formula for combination to sensitive skin
- Signalingpeptides (matrikines): synergistic effect on fibroblast stimulation and dermal matrix reconstruction
For which skin types and at what age?
Rhamnose is one of the best-tolerated anti-aging active ingredients—its safety profile allows for broad use.
- Mature skin (ages 35–40 and up): primarily targets loss of firmness and deepening wrinkles associated with a decline in fibroblasts
- Sensitive skin: does not disrupt the skin microbiome, non-irritating—a gentle alternative to retinol for intolerant skin
- Combination to oily skin: light, serum-like texture; non-comedogenic—suitable for daytime use
- Pregnancy: Rhamnose is a safe active ingredient—unlike retinol (contraindicated) or AHAs (to be used with SPF)
- For daily use in the morning and/or evening, with no photosensitization — combining with SPF 30 is recommended as part of a complete morning routine
How to choose a rhamnose skincare product?
The concentration and formulation determine the product’s actual effectiveness.
- Effective concentration: at least 5% rhamnose for a documented anti-aging effect on fibroblasts—check its position in the INCI list (higher on the list = higher concentration)
- Alcohol- and fragrance-free for sensitive skin—check the INCI list for the absence of ethanol and limonene
- Optimal formats: serums (high concentration, fast absorption) or night creams (occlusive texture for nighttime repair)
- See our selection of anti-wrinkle products, facial serums, and anti-wrinkle masks
