Sebum is a lipid substance secreted by the sebaceous glands—it forms the skin’s hydrolipidic film by mixing with sweat, protecting the epidermis from dehydration, external aggressors, and pathogenic microorganisms. Its natural composition is balanced: triglycerides (57%), wax esters (26%), squalene (12%), and free fatty acids. This naturally balanced sebum is a valuable active ingredient—it is an excess (hyperseborrhea) or a deficiency of it that causes skin problems. Greenclay (smectite, montmorillonite) is the mineral adsorbent of choice for mechanically regulating excess sebum on the skin’s surface—the Jonzac Pure Purifying Exfoliating Mask harnesses its properties to purify pores without drying them out.
Hyperseborrhea (excess sebum) results from excessive stimulation of the sebaceous glands by several factors:
Zinc (RuboZinc 15 mg, Sebactase 3C Pharma) is the most well-documented mineral for inhibiting 5α-reductase (the enzyme that converts testosterone into DHT, which is more active on the sebaceous glands) and reducing hyperseborrhea from within.
Several active ingredients have a documented topical sebum-regulating effect. Niacinamide (vitamin B3, Uriage Hyséac 3-Regul, Effaclar Duo+M by La Roche-Posay) inhibits the transfer of lipids from sebocytes to the skin’s surface—it reduces sebum production by 50 to 60% in 4 weeks at concentrations of 2 to 4%. Topical zinc (acetate or gluconate, Urgo Sebum-Regulating Acne Treatment) locally inhibits 5α-reductase and exerts an anti-inflammatory effect.Salicylic acid (BHA) removes sebum accumulated in the pores and unclogs comedones. Retinol reduces the size of the sebaceous glands and normalizes keratinocyte differentiation—Dermaceutic Activabiome Night Cream for Acne-Prone Skin combines encapsulated retinol with a restorative microbiome.
Phytotherapy offers effective sebum-regulating plants. Wild pansy (Viola tricolor, Naturactive 30 capsules) is the gold standard for anti-inflammatory skin care—its flavonoids and salicylic acid derivatives reduce inflammation of the sebaceous glands and indirectly regulate sebum production. Burdock (Arctium lappa, root rich in polyacetylenes and inulin) is a classic liver-cleansing herb for oily skin—its action on the bile and liver improves the elimination of excess androgens. These plants are used in treatment courses lasting 4 to 12 weeks.
Activated charcoal (activated vegetable charcoal) is a porous adsorbent that mechanically adsorbs excess sebum, pollution residues, and impurities from the pores. Its action is purely mechanical and temporary—use 1 to 2 times a week as a supplement to a comprehensive sebum-regulating routine. The Garancia Marabout Express 10-Day Kit is an intensive treatment for episodes of excessive sebum production. These masks are part of a comprehensive routine: foaming cleanser (Dexeclear Anti-Imperfections) + topical sebum-regulating treatment in the morning (niacinamide + zinc) + BHA exfoliant 2–3 times a week.
