What is urea?
Urea is a compound naturally present in the body, forming part of the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF). It plays an essential role in maintaining skin hydration and eliminating dead cells.
In cosmetics, urea is used for its keratolytic and moisturizing properties, suitable for dry, rough skin prone to dermatological disorders such as eczema or psoriasis.
What are the benefits of urea?
Urea is a key dermatological active ingredient, recognized for its multiple benefits for the skin:
How is urea used in cosmetics?
Urea is present in many dermatological skincare products in different concentrations, depending on the desired effect.
Concentrations and effects
Between 2 and 5% → Intense moisturizing, suitable for dry, sensitive skin.
Between 5 and 10% → Repairing action, ideal for rough areas and chapped hands.
Between 10 and 30% → Keratolytic effect, recommended for thickened, scaly skin or calluses.
Over 30% → Targeted dermatological action, prescribed for the treatment of keratoses and severe conditions.
As a moisturizing and repairing cream
For face and body → Apply a cream containing 2-5% urea morning and evening to clean, dry skin.
For hands and feet → Use a more concentrated formula (10-20% urea) to repair very dry areas.
Dermatological care for atopic skin
To treat psoriasis and eczema → Choose specific creams with a high urea concentration (10-30%).
To combat keratosis pilaris → Apply a lotion containing 10% urea, to gently exfoliate.
Application tip: Always test a small amount before use, especially on sensitive skin.
Is urea suitable for dry, atopic skin?
Yes, thanks to its moisturizing and soothing properties, it :
Reinforces the skin barrier and reduces water loss.
Reduces redness and itching associated with atopic skin.
Promotes long-lasting hydration, ideal for skin prone to eczema and psoriasis.
It is often combined with other emollients such as glycerine or shea butter for optimum effectiveness.
Can urea be used to exfoliate the skin?
Yes, in higher concentrations (10% and above), urea acts as a gentle exfoliant that :
Unclogs pores and smoothes skin texture.
Eliminates dead cells and scales.
Reduces keratosis pilaris and skin roughness.
It is a gentler alternative to fruit acids (AHA, BHA), ideal for sensitive skin requiring regular exfoliation.
Is urea recommended for feet and calluses?
Yes, creams for dry, cracked feet often contain between 10 and 30% urea to :
Soften calluses and corns.
Repair cracked heels.
Prevent the formation of corns and thickened skin.
Tip: Apply a cream with a high urea concentration in the evening, then put on socks for better absorption.
What's the difference between natural and synthetic urea?
Natural urea → Present in sweat and the skin's natural moisturizing factor.
Synthetic urea → Reproduced in laboratories, used in cosmetics and dermatological treatments.
Cosmetic urea is still of synthetic origin, but perfectly biodegradable and non-irritating.
Where can I buy quality urea skin care products?
Products containing urea are available in:
Pharmacies and parapharmacies → Dermatological creams for dry skin, damaged feet, eczema.
Organic and natural cosmetics stores → Urea-based skin care products combined with vegetable oils.
Sites specializing in dermatology and body care → Highly concentrated creams for targeted treatments.
Podiatry and foot care stores → Specialized products for rough areas and calluses.
Choose fragrance- and irritant-free products for optimum tolerance on sensitive skin.
Does urea have any contraindications?
Although well-tolerated, its use requires a few precautions:
Avoid high concentrations on the face, as it may be too active for very sensitive skin.
Do not apply to open wounds or irritated skin, to avoid burning sensations.
May cause slight flaking at the start of use, especially at high concentrations.
Always use a complementary moisturizer to avoid excessive dryness.
Appropriate use ensures that you can enjoy the benefits of urea in complete safety.