Sensitive skin refers to skin with a structurally compromised skin barrier—low levels of ceramides, depleted lipid cement, and increased TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss)—which makes it vulnerable to external aggressors and irritants. The main types of fragile skin are:
A fragrance-free SPF 50+ sunscreen with mineral filters is essential for any exposed sensitive skin—UV rays accelerate the breakdown of ceramides and collagen that are already weakened.
Restoring the skin barrier in fragile skin relies on three types of complementary active ingredients. Occlusives (cold cream, petrolatum, waxes) form a protective film that physically blocks TEWL—ideal for nighttime use and for exposed areas. Emollients (linoleic acid, ceramides, squalene) replenish the intercellular cement. Humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid, urea in low doses) attract and retain water in the stratum corneum.Lactic acid at low concentrations (5–8%) is a versatile active ingredient—it exfoliates very gently, hydrates thanks to its NMF-like properties, and enhances the penetration of subsequent reparative active ingredients.
An infant’s skin is structurally more delicate—its slightly alkaline pH (6–7 vs. 4.5–5.5 in adults), larger relative body surface area, and sebaceous functions that are not yet fully developed require specific care. Baby moisturizing lotions and cold creams are fragrance-free and formulated to respect this immature pH level. Oleo-calcareous liniment (oil + lime water) is the gentlest cleansing solution for an infant’s bottom—it cleanses, protects, and moisturizes simultaneously without rinsing, while respecting the natural acidity of the skin in that area. SPF 50+ baby sunscreen without chemical filters is essential from the very first time your baby is exposed to the sun.
Ordinary soaps (pH 9–10, alkaline surfactants) are strongly discouraged for sensitive skin—they destroy the hydrolipidic film, alkalinize the skin’s pH, and strip away ceramides and surface lipids. Superfatted soaps (enriched with unsaponified oils) and Aleppo soaps (olive oil + laurel berry oil) are gentler alternatives—their unsaponifiable fraction gently nourishes the skin barrier during cleansing. Soap-free cleansing gels (syndet, pH 5–6, SLS/SLES-free) remain the gold standard for sensitive skin. Shower frequency should be reduced (once a day at most, with lukewarm water) to preserve the skin’s microbiome.
Chapped skin (deep, painful, and bleeding cracks) and chapped lips are common symptoms of sensitive skin exposed to cold and repeated irritants. Cracks on the heels and elbows can be treated with reparative creams rich in urea (20–40%) or lactic acid, applied under an occlusive dressing at night. For the lips, intensive repair balms (lanolin, beeswax, shea butter, panthenol) form a long-lasting protective occlusive film. Retinol is contraindicated on fragile skin during an active inflammatory phase—it should be reserved for calm phases in very low concentrations, after the skin barrier has fully recovered.
